At the ~400 USD price point, you are basically exactly in the sweet spot for high quality gear before getting into audiophile / "Golden Ear" / crazy people territory (which is not to say that there aren't some amazing headphones that can be well worth the investment for certain people / use cases up to the ~1000 USD price point. Beyond that is crazy people territory though for non-professional uses)
I think the decision comes down to a few questions:
1) do you want the headphones to be firmly linked to your AV setup / home listening in one specific spot, or do you want the flexibility to plug into your phone as well?
Clearly there's a trade-off here. Each headphone has a certain level of impedance. Put simply, this measures how much tension / voltage you need to drive them in order to make them sound loud and good.
Low impedance headphones are built to be driven by small, low-voltage devices (such as smartphones), high impedance headphones will generally require some sort of amplifier to work properly.
The notion of getting an amplifier really shouldn't scare you away though! Amplifiers are a magical exception in the world of technology in that they are an investment that stays useful for a long time. Amplifier technology proper really hasn't changed much in the last decade(s), despite what many companies claim.
2) do you have a preference for circumaural headphones (=the earpads surround your ear), supra-aural headphones (=the earpads are on your ear) or in-ear headphones?
There's a lot of bullshit science thrown around this question (generally regarding the question whether in-ear or circumaural is superior), but honestly, I've found that people just tend to have a clear preference for one or the other. It is utterly pointless to get great headphones you find uncomfortable to wear.
That being said in-ears have the best product selection if you're looking for a low impedance device, and there's always an advantage in serving sound to an extremely confined, standardized space.
3) You wrote that you don't need noise cancellation. In that case, if you were to choose a supraaural or circumaural headphone, you should pick one with an open back, except for one specific case:
4) Are you a bass head? There's no shame in admitting it, but some people are just wired to enjoy bass-heavy sound wayyyy more than the average listener. If so, you want a closed back, no in-ears and a headphone that is specifically tuned to delivering good bass, because nothing else will scratch that itch. (just don't get Beats, which are actually extremely bass-heavy - there's much better compromises out there)
Now, assuming you want a pure home entertainment setup, wouldn't mind adding an inexpensive (~150-200 USD) amplifier into the mix and you're not into overly-heavy bass, the AKG K701 (also sold as Q701, the only difference is the color and an interchangeable cable) is absolutely amazing and is incredibly comfortable even when wearing it for a long time. They are also exactly in your price range.
One step up from these would be Shure SRH1840 or the second-highest tier Sennheiser supraaurals (HD650/700) but that's already deep into diminishing returns territory IMO.
Tthe ideal setup once an amp is involved really depends on your use cases and the devices you have. If there's just one console involved, you can jury rig a set-up fairly easily (for instance with a PS3, you can just configure it to output sound separately from HDMI and then feed it into the Amp).
If you've got lots of devices, there's lots of options, but the easiest ones generally are:
1) (if your TV supports it) Hook everything up to the TV, configure your TV to pass through the audio, hook the headphone amp to your TVs output. Your TV basically acts as the hub.
Some TVs do this perfectly, some TVs do this but you lose Dolby Encoding (=no fake surround effect, which might be annoying for some gamers), some TVs don't do it at all.
Also some TVs only pass the signal through digitally (e.g. they only have Optical / SPDIF out). In those cases, you'll need something called a DAC in addition to or integrated in your amplifier to both convert the signal from digital to analog and to amplify it. Its not a big deal at all price-wise, you just need to buy the right thing.
2) use an AV Receiver to plug in everything. Some AV receivers actually have a solid built-in headphone amp, even though it makes audiophiles cry.
When asked, I tend to recommend Yamaha models because they work really well and have a sensible, idiot-proof GUI without the need to be configured via a fucking serial port / separate monitor like some terrible "enthusiast" models do.
The AV Receiver variant is also nice because it also lays the groundwork for a home theater setup down the line. This is also the point at which you might notice that Hi-Fi is a horrible rabbit-hole, because every solution just challenges you to add on to it for ever decreasing marginal returns.
Regarding the actual amp, Fiio are popular because they offer really reasonably priced Headphone amps and DACs for lots of use cases, but they won't get you any props on Hi-Fi forums for sure, because clearly a headphone amp has to look like something out of Nikola Tesla's lab.
Just make sure that Amp you choose is powerful enough to drive the headphones you pick.
If you don't want to get into the subject matter, you will find that a Google search of the headphone model + the amp name will universally give you a solid-ish answer.
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