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    The PC (Personal Computer) is a highly configurable and upgradable gaming platform that, among home systems, sports the widest variety of control methods, largest library of games, and cutting edge graphics and sound capabilities.

    Please help review and constructively critique my PROSPECTIVE build

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    gloriana232

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    So I'm interested in buying a new PC and I heard of this site called PCPartpicker, and I love PCP-induced art, so I just HAD to check it out! :p

    Anyways, so I put together a build that started with the GTX 1070 and kind of built around that core part, making liberal use of the site's compatibility filter, and surfacing the most-rated and highest-rated lesser parts. Now, there's a bunch of sub categories on the site that I'm pretty sure aren't relevant to my build, such as an Ethernet port and sound card (aren't those both good enough on the motherboard at this point?!), but if you look over my build and have to say "ummm… this machine isn't going to output any sound nor connect to the internet", then say it here please!

    The other critique I'm looking for is choice of RAM sets, CPU, and motherboard. Like I said, I made use of the compatibility filter starting from the GTX 1070 before choosing a motherboard, CPU, RAM set, cooling system, and finally power supply. If you think there are alternate choices I could make that could save me some money and not risk compatibility issues or diminish the quality of the build, please feel free to make such suggestions. Any informed, constructive help would be much appreciated! :)

    For reference, this PC will output to a 4ktv I already have, and besides, older generation cards seem to be close enough to the same price as the 1070 that I feel comfortable with that choice.

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    Dave_Tacitus

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    If you're going down the route of a new build with a 1070, I'd definitely go with an i5 or i7 as a CPU. If the price difference between one and that AMD CPU you have listed is too great, get rid of half your RAM unless you're planning on doing some major productivity work with your new PC. 8GB is still fine for a gaming system, 16GB gives you some decent headroom if you're doing other stuff.

    If you'll be running modern games at 4k, then don't expect 60fps and high settings from the 1070.

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    gloriana232

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    #3  Edited By gloriana232

    Thanks for the input on the processor and RAM, I'll fenagle that a bit and see how it works out. Honestly I went all out on RAM because it was so cheap.

    Now, just because I'll be outputting to a 4ktv doesn't mean I'll be running every game at 3840x2160. I got a TV, wall mount, and refundable warranty (meaning if I don't use the warranty by the time it expires I get my money back on the warranty) for the price of a slightly larger 1080p TV on its own, and at this point I wasn't going to get a 1080p TV.

    I just don't think I can really afford the extra $350~ a GTX 1080 would cost… but is the performance gap bigger than the price difference would imply? From what little I've read, the 1070 is plenty good for the money but I know I haven't done an EXHAUSTIVE review roundup.

    Edit: looking through their compatible CPU search settings, Intel is just greyed out. I guess that means my motherboard isn't compatible with the Intel CPU? Okay, now it looks like I need more detailed help.

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    rethla

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    Yeh i agree with switching to an Intel CPU and 2x 8Gb of RAM should do the trick.

    GTX 1080 is roughly 15% faster than 1070 meaning 15% higher FPS at any given point. Obviously the pricedifference is bigger than 15% but only you can say if its worth it for you or not.

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    gloriana232

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    @rethla: okay so can you recommend a motherboard switch that would be compatible with both the Intel CPU and the 1070?

    Also, since neither of you seem to be pointing out my lack of sound and Ethernet cards, that my assumption about the motherboard handling those inputs is correct?

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    rethla

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    The graphicscard will be compatible with anything as long as your computer case is big enough to physically fit it and you got enough power to run it. I would say your 430W powersupply is on the very low end and even though it might work i strongly recommend getting something above 500W to have at least some failsafe margin.

    The things that needs to go together are CPU, motherboard and RAM. Most motherboards are 99% the same and the only things that differs are how many USB ports you will get and bla bla. I usually go for some standard Asus board which in this case would be something out of their Z170 series if you want the new Intel CPUs. http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#c=110&sort=a8&page=1&f=2&m=8

    Once you have chosen the motherboard you should reselect the CPU and Ram with the compatible search.

    The internet and sound onboard the motherboards are good enough for the vast majority of users. If it aint good enough for you you should already know what you are after in those departments i would say.

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    alistercat

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    #7  Edited By alistercat
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    gloriana232

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    @rethla: Okay, thanks! And as for the 1080, I started a new build with the i7 and the 1080 and the price was already 100 more than the linked build! ~{>}_{<}~

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    Dave_Tacitus

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    #9  Edited By Dave_Tacitus

    @gloriana232: Motherboards will have sound and ethernet, and your graphics card will handle HDMI audio. You can buy a sound card but, honestly, I wouldn't bother unless you think that the onboard sound you're getting is sub-par. Onboard sound chips have come a long way.

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    gloriana232

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    #10  Edited By gloriana232

    @dave_tacitus: I'm not looking to spend money I don't need to. I always end up routing my stuff through an old but amazing quality stereo I have and that thing can take input from a 3.5mm cable and blow the hat off the pope!

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    Dave_Tacitus

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    mavs

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    An i5 performs virtually identical to an i7, and saves you a ton.

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    gloriana232

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    @mavs: okay, so you think I should go with the i5, if I do that with my new adjusted build, it costs about as much as the original. I'll post the link in a second…

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    gloriana232

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    I'm on my phone now so here's the link:

    http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/sNMJbj

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    rethla

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    @gloriana232: Thats looking all good.

    Theres no SSD drive in the package which is sort of standard nowdays but if you dont mind slightly longer startup and loadingtimes thats ok. It wont affect the actual performance when the games are running.

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    gloriana232

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    @rethla: I went with the highest/most rated hybrid drive I could find on there with 2TB. I'm not married to the choice to be honest. Got a recommendation on the hard drive front?

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    mavs

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    Seems reasonable. Perhaps others would disagree, but I consider CPU overclocking to be less essential than a SSD, a beefier power supply or even cash in your wallet. If you don't plan to overclock you could get a non-K i5 that comes with the stock intel cooler and cut the cooler master from your build. I think that would also allow you to use a cheaper motherboard.

    Ignore all that if you're comfortable with the price though, I'm not sure my information is up to date.

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    OurSin_360

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    I'm in the camp that if your on a budget SSD is non essential, it barely helps games (in my experience) and is really only used to speed up your OS and maybe run some games that give extremely awful loads etc.

    I believe overclocking a CPU is essential if your not running the top of the line, I use an i5 6600k and did a simple overclock to 4.2 and it's great with my 1080.

    Like everyone said avoid amd cpu's if your gaming, I personally would go for the skylake cpu's, i56600 and higher. I feel like Gigabyte boards should be avoided as in my experience so far(albeit limited) is they have issues with certain ram sticks even when they are "compatible". If you go with skylake you will be needing ddr4 ram as well, which is priced comparably IMO. Also 32gb of ram is overkill, all i have is 8 and it's more than fine for gaming and if i update it will be 2 more sticks for 16gb.

    Get at least a 500w 80plus bronze power supply, that is one of the major things to not go cheap on IMO as it is the life blood of your entire system. You could save money and go with a mid size chassis, but it will obviously require more research to know if all your parts will fit. I have a full size atx case and it is HUGE, and fucking heavy but almost all my components fit into my mid size case before but i started running out of room as i added and changed components.

    So to sum i guess, Skylake cpu and motherboard with ddr4, 500w 80plus bronze psu minimum, 8-16gb of ram, cheaper mid size case if need be. Also do you need a bluray drive? Seems a bit to expensive imo.

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    alexl86

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    When I built a PC last year, I decided on a i5-6600K and it hasn't let me down yet. You don't really need more for playing games. If you're doing video editing on the side, then an i7 is probably more desirable. I think 430W is too little on the power supply, I wouldn't go under 500. You should also choose your power supply with great care, as a flimsy one could short-circuit and take the motherboard/other components with it. There is a somewhat outdated "PSU tier list" on Reddit which is still useful. Anything on the first and second tier is still solid.

    You don't need 32gb RAM. I got 2x8GB last year, and that might be more than I need. This may be a personal proclivity of mine, but the last couple of times I've gotten a new rig, I've bought a SSD for storing the system and related software, and kept all my games on a 3gb HDD.

    If you're not watching/ripping blu-rays on that PC, I'd save 20 bucks and get a regular dvd drive. Most games come with steam codes now and are still installed from dvd.

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    Dave_Tacitus

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    Re: Hybrid drives.

    I own a couple and they're noticeably faster when booting than even my WD Blacks but noticeably slower than even a budget SSD. They're a decent compromise as a boot drive if you don't want an SSD but not worth it as a storage solution.

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    ninjalegend

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    I am happy with the 1070. I personally need a SSD boot as my old gaming laptop spoiled me firing up in just a few seconds. Here is the pre built I picked up.

    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypower-desktop-intel-core-i7-8gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1070-120gb-solid-state-drive-1tb-hard-drive-black-white/5464600.p?id=bb5464600&skuId=5464600

    First one was DOA. Had to get it from a brick and morter 'cause I had a feeling that would happen. The parts they used were pretty great and comparable to what you are shooting for.

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    stonyman65

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    @mavs said:

    An i5 performs virtually identical to an i7, and saves you a ton.

    No, it doesn't. CPU intensive games are going to see a small (call it 5%-10% or so) bump from hyper threading and the higher clock speeds, and anything non-game related like photoshop work or video rendering will also see a nice bump as well. If you can swing it, always go for the I7. What really saves you some money is overclocking with K-series chips.

    • My suggestion for a strictly-gaming build to go with the latest generation mid-range Intel I5 or I5-K series chip and either a Z-series (overclocking) or B-series (non-overclocking) motherboard to match. If you are going to be doing things other than gaming, then spend some extra cash and spring for an I7 or I7-K.
    • Don't bother with anything AMD. They are waaay behind in terms of CPU architecture. It'd be a waste of money buying anything AMD at this point, unless that is literally the only thing you can afford. Their GPU selection at this time aren't much better.
    • 16GB of DDR 4 is fine. No reason to go with the older DDR3L.
    • The 1070 is awesome for 1080P gaming and pretty good for 1440P as well. No problem maxing everything out at 60hz/fps, although if you want to go above 60hz/fps, you might need to lower the settings a bit. From what I've read the 1070 overclocks pretty well, too.
    • I would suggest a minimum 550w power supply. 80-Plus certified (the higher the better), from a reputable company. Seasonic, Corsair, Thermaltake, Fractal, Silverstone, Coolermaster... Take your pick...
    • SSDs are totally worth it. Samsung Evo and SanDisk Extreme Pro seem to be the two big ones at the moment. Prices aren't that bad these days, especially if you get them on sale.
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    rethla

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    @rethla: I went with the highest/most rated hybrid drive I could find on there with 2TB. I'm not married to the choice to be honest. Got a recommendation on the hard drive front?

    Not really. All harddrives perform about the same and all SSDs perform about the same in my experience. I havnt tried hybrid drives.

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    falconer

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    I generally agree with much of what has been said in here. You can almost always get a better PSU, and it's 2016, get a damn SSD.

    As someone that built their first PC a couple months ago, I would recommend staying VERY FAR AWAY from the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Once you get the damn thing on, it does it's job just fine. The problem is actually getting it on. I have an i5 and the same Asus mobo in your current list. Attaching the 212 EVO to the board requires an insane amount of force to the point where I was sure I was doing something wrong.

    Nothing broke *knocks on wood* and everything works fine now. But if you were confused even with needing a new mobo after switching your CPU, then I would say DO NOT get a 212 EVO. Unfortunately, I can not recommend an alternative since I've never used anything else.

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    gloriana232

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    #25  Edited By gloriana232

    Okay, so I made some changes based on suggestions and I'm now at the upper limit of what I feel I can afford for this thing. Only suggestions that reduce the cost of the build will be heeded at this point.

    As for the suggestion that I swap out my blu-ray drive for a DVD drive: I don't have a PS3 or this-gen console (WiiU aside) so I figured to spend 20 bucks extra to turn my rig into a 4k-capable blu-ray player was worth the 20 bucks.

    Edit: here's the link :p

    http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dgHYHN

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    rethla

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    #26  Edited By rethla
    @gloriana232 said:

    Edit: here's the link :p

    http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dgHYHN

    Thats a link to your first build ;)

    @falconer:Thats probably the reaction from most first time PC builders. I have installed several different CPU coolers including the 212 EVO which i have in my current PC. The 212 EVO has an extraordinarily poor manual but other than that was pretty normal as far as CPU cooler installations go. The CPU fans are supposed to sit tight ;)

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    gloriana232

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    @rethla: Ack! Too many tabs open!

    ~{>}_{–}~

    HERE is my updated build:

    http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/kmQjpb

    Also, for those wondering, I have a friend who I'm going to ask to help install the whole thing, but for some reason they're whole-heartedly against me getting a 1070 and building around that that I'm just not consulting them on the parts to buy; also, I felt like going to a forum with a decent community would give me more objective answer than my friend's system-wars-style fan-personism. But I know that when they see me with $1700 worth of delicate PC hardware they'll feel guilty and help me install everything :p

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    HoboZero

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    #28  Edited By HoboZero

    I wrote a whole bunch, then decided to delete all that and just take a stab at your build:

    http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/zVNJbj

    • 120GB is enough for a boot drive, but it would be nice to have some extra SSD space for a few games, so that is upped.
    • The only reason to go with that ASUS board over a less expensive one is if you wan't to be able to do SLI later, which is a nice upgrade option. But if you want to exercise that option you will need a good PSU with enough connectors and juice, so I bumped that a bit.
    • If you aren't overclocking, the i7 non-K is probably a better value, as someone mentioned earlier in the thread I think.
    • I changed the case, just because if I spend more than $1000 on something I like to be able to see it light up :) The motherboard you are buying has a lot of nice accents, it would be a shame to hide it in an ugly black shell. You don't have to go with the case I suggested, i just picked something in your range with a window and some pizzaz

    So an outlay of another $100 gets you to an i7, much faster RAM, sexier case ;), more SSD space, and a better PSU for future SLI.

    Oh, also dropped the blu-ray drive, but that may have been presumptuous. If you are just buying it because you think you might need it later, or to install the OS, I would probably hold off. You can always add one easily later.

    Good luck with the build! I hope you aren't in a part of Canada with insane sales tax like me :)

    Edit: changed the link over to the Canada PCPartpicker site

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    AudreyedToDeath

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    @hobozero: Okay, so you kinda cheated! :p

    Part of why through the kitchen sink (read: blu-ray player) into my build is that this is going to be my primary non-Nintendo home theatre piece. I've got a wireless mouse and keyboard and a good controller so this thing will be perfect for the living room. That's also why I picked a more subdued case design. Thanks for your input though! I might not need a blu-ray player just yet…

    Also to anyone wondering why someone with a completely different username is replying as though she's the OP, that's because I was piggybacking off my friend's premium account during my brokeassness, but now that my brokeassness period has (probably only temporarily) come to an end, I got my own premium account and decided to stop spamming my friend's inbox with your replies to my post! :o

    And for the record I'm in Ontario.

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    mavs

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    @mavs said:

    An i5 performs virtually identical to an i7, and saves you a ton.

    No, it doesn't. CPU intensive games are going to see a small (call it 5%-10% or so) bump from hyper threading and the higher clock speeds, and anything non-game related like photoshop work or video rendering will also see a nice bump as well. If you can swing it, always go for the I7. What really saves you some money is overclocking with K-series chips.

    • My suggestion for a strictly-gaming build to go with the latest generation mid-range Intel I5 or I5-K series chip and either a Z-series (overclocking) or B-series (non-overclocking) motherboard to match. If you are going to be doing things other than gaming, then spend some extra cash and spring for an I7 or I7-K.
    • Don't bother with anything AMD. They are waaay behind in terms of CPU architecture. It'd be a waste of money buying anything AMD at this point, unless that is literally the only thing you can afford. Their GPU selection at this time aren't much better.
    • 16GB of DDR 4 is fine. No reason to go with the older DDR3L.
    • The 1070 is awesome for 1080P gaming and pretty good for 1440P as well. No problem maxing everything out at 60hz/fps, although if you want to go above 60hz/fps, you might need to lower the settings a bit. From what I've read the 1070 overclocks pretty well, too.
    • I would suggest a minimum 550w power supply. 80-Plus certified (the higher the better), from a reputable company. Seasonic, Corsair, Thermaltake, Fractal, Silverstone, Coolermaster... Take your pick...
    • SSDs are totally worth it. Samsung Evo and SanDisk Extreme Pro seem to be the two big ones at the moment. Prices aren't that bad these days, especially if you get them on sale.

    Hyperthreading might get you 5-10% with SLI, but not with a single card. At least not yet. For years the i5 versus i7 comparison has looked like this:

    http://www.anandtech.com/show/9483/intel-skylake-review-6700k-6600k-ddr4-ddr3-ipc-6th-generation/22
    http://www.anandtech.com/show/9483/intel-skylake-review-6700k-6600k-ddr4-ddr3-ipc-6th-generation/22

    Or occasionally the i5 will be slightly faster. Depends on the game of course, if your main game is one of those multi-thread loving games then research and spend accordingly.

    As for overclocking, it was nice when it was free but now that there's an automatic $50-$100 premium (thanks to the motherboard and cooler) articles like these have made me consider turning in my enthusiast card.

    http://www.anandtech.com/show/9533/intel-i7-6700k-overclocking-4-8-ghz/8
    http://www.anandtech.com/show/9533/intel-i7-6700k-overclocking-4-8-ghz/8

    Of course I still bought a 4790K the last time I made this choice because that mindset dies hard. What's good for you depends on what you want to do in the PC pool.

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    rethla

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    @mavs: ofc it looks like that when its the GPU thats the bottleneck. Wait a few years until the GPUs catches up and you will see the difference.

    Buy an solid CPU and the only thing you have to upgrade is the GPU for a couple of generations forward.

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    deanoxd

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    #32  Edited By deanoxd

    I would swap the case to a corsair 450d mid tower, so you can get rid of that anchor of a cpu cooler. get yourself a corsair h80i v2 all in one water cooler super quite and excellent cooling. and i would get at least 120gb ssd, but other then that its a solid build.

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    AudreyedToDeath

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    Okay guys, thanks for all your input! I'm coming to you live from my new rig!

    Sooooo.... now there's only one question.... how do I get steam to recognize the games I ported over to my new PC from my old one? I placed the entire folder of all the games (indiviually) I wanted right away, and I know there's an "add non-steam game" function, and I did that but it didn't give me the steam page or my steam achievements, they were just generic pages. And I know you need to do some registry shit but I figured this was an old problem for steam and they could automatically generate and allow me to download the (presumably far smaller) registry files. I tried searching through their help topics and maybe I'm just choosing the wrong words to describe my problems? But surely I'm not the only person for whom two passthroughs from disc drive to SSD to SSD is faster than her internet access? I know, I know. I'm dumb. I just want to shoot stuff, solve line puzzles, and... watch... fires(?) though! ~{>}_{<}~

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    mike

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    @audreyedtodeath: I'm not sure what you mean here..."Add Non-Steam Game" only adds a link to the game in your Steam library and allows you to launch it using the Steam client. That's about it.

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    AudreyedToDeath

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    @mike: Exactly. These are games I bought from Steam... just on my old computer. I placed the folders for each of them in my steamapps folder but I don't know what to do next to add registry files and make Steam treat these games like their own... which they are. I always hear Jeff and Brad and them talking about moving Steam games from hard drive to hard drive like it's nothing, but I don't know what to do.

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    mike

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    #36  Edited By mike

    @audreyedtodeath: Ok, in that case, what you need to do is move the game folders into your new Steam Library folder at steamApps/common. Once the folder with the game files is there, you need to go to your Steam Library and Install the game to the same location. Steam will then see that the game folder already exists, run through an operation where it discovers existing files, and then it will show as installed.

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    AudreyedToDeath

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    @mike: And if there's no sub folder in steamapps named "common" do I create one and move the game folders there?

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    AudreyedToDeath

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    Because literally it sounds like the only step I missed was C:.../common/

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    mike

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    @audreyedtodeath: That should work. Alternatively, just install a game from your Library and Steam should create the folder itself.

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    #40  Edited By AudreyedToDeath

    @mike: Yeah, I wanted to show my mom Life is Strange (she was the only way I could drive out of town to pick up the parts I needed) so I started downloading that in the background while we watched Mr. Robot. Unfortunately after the episode ended, we weren't anywhere close to finished downloading, and my mom had to go home. That's when I decided to conscript my USB SSD to help get my games over faster. I should have started with Spelunky or Fez! :p

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