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NoMoreGoodGames

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#3  Edited By NoMoreGoodGames

Thanks so much for the help guys! Really appreciate it. Saved me some time.

Do you guys know any modular/semi modular 900-1100 PSUs that are quiet and don't overheat, for preferably around $100? The only "tier 1" from this list http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html I could even consider is the Supernova G2 for $150, but it has a full star less on newegg than the Supernova P2 (too expensive for sure), and two reviews visible on the first page say it's way too loud. Then one guy said it was great because it was quiet. See how impossible this is? So if someone could point out some of the best/most quiet tier 2 ones on that list in the price range, and what you recommend, that would be great.

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#4  Edited By NoMoreGoodGames

I picked out a 750 watts PSU for my 4790k, 980ti set-up about a week ago. I plan to use that card for about 5 years I hope, and in the back of my mind was always being able to add SLI at that point for really cheap compared to now. But I didn't realize that extra GPUs required a greater power suppl. Now I don't know if 750 is enough, I was thinking 800-900. I'm also using the devil's canyon. Don't know how to overclock yet but that option would be nice.

1. How much PSU do I need for my setup if I want to SLI at some point?

2. Will say a 900 PSU be too much for just the one 980 TI in the meantime? Do I need a 750 for now and a 800+ for the future, or will the 800+ one work for now too? I doubt it works that way, I assume that number is the max power it can generate, and that it scales down to what you need (or the mobo controls it). Just want to make sure!

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#5  Edited By NoMoreGoodGames

@hmoney001 said:

Should give this a read.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7364/memory-scaling-on-haswell

Thank you. I've already read up on the latency vs bandwidth (if that's the word, the 1600 - 3100 number). The higher bandwidth was typically better and I did all the calculations and decided to go with the 2400/10CAS models over the 1600/8 ones or whatever they offered, I don't remember. That's not the issue anymore as far as I know. Now it's just about the voltage.

Although... looking at the table in your post, I may have messed up the newegg filter. I think I was going through CAS latency filters first, and maybe I forgot to check the 12 CAS ones... I remember the highest i found was 2400. Or did I calculate that that the 2400/10 was faster? But back then I had read a flawed explanation of latency vs bandwidth that was just multiplying the two numbers to see what was faster. Now I understand how even with less latency, the width of the things is enough that it's usually still in use 100% of the time so after the initial onset, you get more extra speed from that then you lose. Even with the correct calculation, 2400/10 was still faster than the ones with 8 CAS Latency. But I can't remember if I messed up and didn't look at 3000 ones. Can you tell me if I should go with 2400/10 or look for one of the 3100 or 3000 ones with 12 CAS latency?

edit nvm I went back to newegg to jog my memory and the ones above 2400 don't seem to have any reviews and most of them are like 10x as expensive. So yeah I know 2400 is ideal now, I just dont know if I want my ram running at 1.5 voltage or 1.6, if it matters at all. If it's better to do 1.5, then I'll get the 2133 ram. If it doesn't matter, Ill get the faster one.

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#6  Edited By NoMoreGoodGames

@carecrab said:

If you're new to pc gaming I don't think minute differences in mousing surfaces will influence your experience in any perceptible way.

There are no objective padtruths.

It's an objective truth the QCK+ has had low tracking speed issues with the Naos 7000 for a lot of people. Whether it's been determined if they're just using it wrong, or if they got defective mice or pads, or if the QCK+ just isn't a good mouse for the Naos 7000, is another question that can be answered "objectively" within reason based on, again, does the product work or is it defective with this mouse? That's an objective question. Do they all (or 90%+) have low speed polling issues with the Naos or not?

What I'm asking for, when I ask a question, is whatever the best known information that exists is about the question. So if that means a concrete, definite answer, if the objective answer is known, then I want that. If it's not known for sure, then I want everything that is known. When you're vague or don't know what information is out there, then I can't know what information is out there, so then I have to go look for it. And since when I go look for it, I'm not asking the question, it's difficult to even find people addressing the question. That's why you see new posts on this forum every day, instead of people just going through all the old ones. 10 different people disagreeing about Deathadder quality in a thread from 2011 doesn't help me. I can even find a thread from 2013 where everyone agrees on the three best of something, but have no idea how many better ones have come out since then. Are they still the best? So then I have to go search that, but there are no recent threads, so then I have to ask! But you guys don't know either, and you want to shame me for it or whatever like "look at this asshole still asking questions about his PC, just buy something already." As if I enjoy spending even one unnecessary minute wading through contradictory tech forum posts from 2013. I want it built. I want it over with. That's why I keep coming back for help like hey, please, help me get this finished already. But you guys don't know either and that's fine. At least now I can reasonably assume on my own that the answers to certain questions I had just aren't publicly known, but only because I spent enough time looking to know that, rather than just looking for an hour, not finding an answer, and still having no idea whether the answer doesn't exist or if I just haven't found it yet.

Edit forgot to address the polling issues thing. You're saying I'm a newb and I won't notice defective products anyway, so what's the difference... and you said that in response to my post that clearly explained answers like that are very unhelpful. It's like as a result of not knowing the answers to certain questions, you guys have to invest some reason why the answers don't matter anyway. Is this like a defense mechanism? I'm new so I shouldn't bother with the details of what I'm spending over a thousand dollars on? Really? And what happens when I'm not new anymore in a few months, or a year? Clearly plenty of PC users notice these issues or there wouldn't be such widespread awareness about them. Of course it could just be a vocal minority who notices certain things, but without knowing whether I'd be one of them, why would anyone buy a product with reports of these issues when there are plenty of alternatives for the same price? You don't need to be defensive just because you don't know the specs of every PC peripheral by heart.

But next time I ask which product would be the best value for my money, please don't tell me not to worry about getting the most value out of my money. Next time pay attention to the title, and just tell me. If you don't know, then start spending more time asking questions, and less time attempting poorly to answer them. You tried to make fun of me, but ironically, it sounds like you need to be doing exactly what I'm doing! At least, if you want to be qualified to answer people's questions, rather than giving answers that basically boil down to "you won't notice the differences between the products anyway, so just get whatever." Most people can see how that isn't helpful.

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#7  Edited By NoMoreGoodGames
@carecrab said:

is this satire?

Why would it be satire? I only learned this recently since I'm new to PCs, so maybe you didn't know either, but the smoothness and material of mousepads affects aiming. Some pads are better for control, some for speed, some a balance. Normally this would be easy, and I would just pick up the one everyone recommends, but I just happened to pick out a mouse that has issues reported with it. I then did what any reasonable person would and googled what mousepad has been tested to perform best with the 7000. I could not find any reports that anyone has done that test outside of a few people on a forum using the inaccurate built in tester to test their own pads. They got better scores with paper usually than all of their $20 mousepads. Shitty bargain bin ones they said were old from 5 years ago got 10/10, name brands 5. So that was meaningless. The pure talent also had issues, that was the other one people recommended. Keep in mind this is general. I also need to know which works best with a heavy mouse like the Naos 7000, and I couldn't find that information either.

So I asked my PC questions on the PC forum. Well, I asked my questions on the general forum first by accident, but then I asked them on the PC forum. You'll know it's satire when I start asking about g-sync on the mac forum. Until then, just still trying to get some specific, factual answers from people. Not vague or incomplete information. Not "I wouldn't even bother buying any of that personally. Does every PC truly even need a mouse?" Good for you, that you know enough about what all the different choices do and whether you, individually, would find use of something. I don't, which is why I'm asking, so I can make the same decision for myself just like you did when you built your PC.

So if anyone knows whether the Glorious Heavy XL is the best mousepad for the Naos 7000, and if the logo tracking and seams are a real issue, that would be helpful. If not, maybe cut the quips about how long this is taking to build (I already explained I haven't even been thinking about it between the week or two I asked questions about it 4 months ago and now), because, and if you've pointed this out then you should know this already, I've certainly taken the time to do more research than most and to ask all the right questions here. It's the information available, and the answers to those questions, that is lacking. It's not like I'm asking some vague thing. As far as I know, you can test how mice respond with different pads, from speed to responsiveness to even accuracy, I've read. There are certainly subjective aspects to each pad, but outside of those which I can decide for myself based on my own subjective preferences, there is also a mouse/mousepad combination that is objectively the best according to those tests, and a combination that is objectively the second best, and so on.

So which is the best mouse/mousepad combination for the Naos 7000 according to objective criteria? Which are the top 3? If someone just told me that information, I could look at the three of them in 5 minutes, and pick the one that also looks like what I want. And that goes for all my questions. This could have all been done within a few hours if anyone here actually had answers to even just half of my questions, but you guys don't, and how can I blame you for that? I don't, and I haven't been able to find the information anywhere else. Just stop being assholes about it, and stop projecting blame on me for asking so many questions you don't know the answers to. How difficult is to say "I don't know the answer to that, and whenever anyone else has discussed that information that I've seen, no one else does either. It probably is not readily available to the public, so it is impossible to say which is best. However, in my time here, I've seen most Naos 7000 users prefer these mousepads." And then list them, and their pros and cons compared to each other if you know.

It's not that hard. Or, if for some reason certain tests have never been done with these popular PC peripherals by anyone, then say that, and give whatever the best information that is known instead. Then I can just work on that and make the best decision based on the available information. Or obviously if you don't have time to respond, don't respond. But when you respond with vague answers, and don't state whether the tests have been done, and really give me nothing to work off at all, then I have to keep looking because I have nothing to work from. I'm not saying many here weren't very helpful in the basic stage of this, what's an i-7, what's an i-5, and so on. And guess what? I was able to make those basic decisions much more quickly as a result. But it's become apparent you guys don't know the answers to most of the complex questions. Not your fault at all. It's just not mine either, so stop giving me grief for it. (When I say you guys, I don't mean everyone on the forum, just a select few who have responded recently with their "answers").

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Got everything picked out, including monitor, besides the mousepad. That includes ram, initially picked the G.SKILL TridentX Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589. 2400 speed, 1.6 voltage, lowest CAS latency I could find with those specs and good reviews. Some debate Corsair vs Gskill but I picked those.

But then I read a comment somewhere about how they wouldn't use 1.6 voltage ram on Haswell (4790k what is what I bought not sure if that's Haswell?), that all it does is allow overclocking of 2133 ram up to 2400, and that's unnecessary or can cause unnecessary issues.

So I found one, and only one, with reviews on newegg that was a 2133 1.5 version with the same low latency. CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M2A2133C10 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233332&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo.

Little more expensive than the Gskill, and can't go up to 2400, but it's 1.5 voltage. Probably a little older too. Which should I get, the 2400 Gskill 1.6V, 2133 Corsair 1.5V, or a different model/brand of 2400 1.6?

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#9  Edited By NoMoreGoodGames

I wasn't sure whether to get the Deathadder Chroma, Naos 7000, or Avior 7000, since I don't know if I'm palm or claw grip yet, but I picked the Naos for hopefully more comfort and the same specs as the Avior. If I need a different grip I might eventually try the Deathadder.

I read the Puretrak Talent has better speed and control than the QCK+, but it gets bumps in its surface. The QCK+ apparently has low speed tracking issues with the Mionix. There's also that popular Japanese one, forget the name, starts with HA, but it's apparently too slick after the first week and oil/sweat gets on it. I also read that Turtle brand's new one with the big red logo on it from March that Tom's Hardware recommends can be a little rough on the hands (and rough + a heavier mouse, not sure about that). What I want is the comfort and to take advantage of the weight of the mouse for better control in terms of mass, but I also want to be able to change directions quickly, and I don't want it too heavy. Ideally I could match the heavy mouse with a smooth pad and get the best of both worlds, but at the same time more mass on a smooth pad... I mean hockey players can stop pretty easily on ice, but try to get a zamboni to stop without breaks. I'm worried matching a heavy mouse with a slick surface is just going to make the mass slide everywhere kind of wildly. But then if it's too rough, the mouse will feel way too heavy.

What mousepads are left? Those were the ones everyone recommended. Right now I'm planning to use the Glorious PC Gaming Race Heavy XL one and hope for the rest. A lot of people say the mouse doesn't track well going over the logo in the corner, and that the seam stitching around the borders is rough and changes the tracking smoothness when you go there. I don't like either of those things but can't you just not use the very far corners and edges of the mousepad? It's XL after all. I have no idea have the surface compares to the Puretalent or QCK+ in terms of speed and how well it would work with the Naos. But it seems to be pretty balanced and well regarded. Should I go with that one or another?

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#10  Edited By NoMoreGoodGames

Got everything picked out, including monitor, besides the mousepad. That includes ram, initially picked the G.SKILL TridentX Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589. 2400 speed, 1.6 voltage, lowest CAS latency I could find with those specs and good reviews. Some debate Corsair vs Gskill but I picked those.

But then I read a comment somewhere about how they wouldn't use 1.6 voltage ram on Haswell (4790k what is what I bought not sure if that's Haswell?), that all it does is allow overclocking of 2133 ram up to 2400, and that's unnecessary or can cause unnecessary issues.

So I found one, and only one, with reviews on newegg that was a 2133 1.5 version with the same low latency. CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M2A2133C10 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233332&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo.

Little more expensive than the Gskill, and can't go up to 2400, but it's 1.5 voltage. Probably a little older too. Which should I get, the 2400 Gskill 1.6V, 2133 Corsair 1.5V, or a different model/brand of 2400 1.6?

edit sorry I thought I clicked on the PC forum. If it's possible to move it I would appreciate it if a mod could do that, if any are on and have time. Very sorry.