cwniles

No problem and probably the best move to return it. Somehow I had missed your response when posting mine above but, assuming you are fluent in what I assume to be Swedish, I would bet there is a list of recommended/tested devices maintained either by Tele2 or maybe Reddit or something....once again, good luck.

hard to say, most of their stuff is in Swedish and Google translate only goes so far. With the different types of internet service available I would hesitate to say whether this would work or not. You really should find a list of approved devices from your ISP or, a device that has been reported as functioning by other parties using the same ISP. This page may help.... https://www.tele2.nl/klantenservice/thuis/internet/handleidingen/

I have no idea what the following page says but it references the model of the router as well as tele 2 http://kb.netgear.se/app/answers/detail/a_id/26003/~/ingen-internetuppkoppling-uppt%C3%A4cks

Good luck

Really need to check with your ISP to see if it is compatible. They should maintain a list of compatible modems. What ISP are you using? (who do you pay for internet access?)

@phoenix654: Keep at it....it's a steep learning curve but like I said, the BIOS is the foundation upon which everything is built and if you can get a grasp on what options/settings are available and what they do, you will have a good start. There should be several resources available on-line for your BIOS that explain the settings in relatively plain english as well as what sort of impact they might have. I would pay very close attention to any PCI-E/graphics specific settings as really, it could be something in your BIOS that is causing that corruption at higher clock speeds/resolutions etc.....a good troubleshooting procedure is to be aware of the supported speeds etc. as by default, the BIOS is probably trying to run the card as fast as possible so, a good way to go is to dial things back a bit. A lot of motherboards set timings and other basic settings etc using stupid terminology like "Extreme" etc.....any of these sort of things that apply to your PCI-E bus/GPU, dial them back a bit. At the very least you will gain some working knowledge regarding your BIOS settings and how they can impact not only performance but stability.

I hate to go back to phase 1 here but honestly, you really should be 100% confident the card is not functioning prior to RMA'ing it.....the situation has sucked so far but going through the hassle of returning it etc., just to find out there is no problem with it would suck even more.

Me personally, I would track down the latest NVIDIA drivers for Windows 10 (I believe it's the same install for 32 or 64 bit but check to be sure) and then do a clean install of Windows....at this point, it might be a good idea to try and mirror or backup that base Windows install so you have an easy way to get back to square one without having to do a reinstall. At this point (and I haven't used Windows 10 yet so I say this based on prior versions of Windows), Windows should be running at a basic resolution which it will attempt to optimize based on standard driver settings. This is the point where you want to ensure the card is operating properly...if it is outputting an uncorrupted signal here and displaying content without the red dots etc, I would tend to speculate that any display corruption encountered after this point, meaning after you go through the NVIDIA driver install, would be a result of that driver.

So, if a clean install of Windows with no NVIDIA drivers installed gets you a clean (although not optimized) display, like I said, try and mirror that base install so if the next step goes wonky, you can get back to Step 1 easily, then try and install the latest NVIDIA drivers...trying to keep that install as basic and as minimal as possible....driver only if possible....at least for testing.

If you do have to RMA the card, first order of business....get your PC running as well as possible using both the onboard graphics as well as the onboard sound. Frankly, if this machine can't play Portal smoothly (dependant on resolution/graphics settings) I would be a little surprised.

With your motherboard, RAM and processor, I would think you would have a "decent" gaming experience without a standalone graphics card. I would take some time to familiarize yourself with your motherboard/BIOS as honestly, the system you have can be configured to run pretty well. You may have to lower some settings but limiting yourself to low resolution Freecell is underestimating the capabilities of your PC.

Also, graphic card driver installs/updates have always been notorious for being difficult. I would be sure to fully review the install procedure for the new graphics card prior to installing it. Make sure you have downloaded the latest drivers (don't use the disk that came with the card) and with all the failed/corrupted previous installs, as well as the fact that you now have the onboard graphics drivers installed, my recommendation would be to do a clean install of Windows which should get you a clean install of Windows with no NVIDIA drivers/registry hooks/.dll's etc. to muck things up. Be sure to remember that, if you go this route, just prior to the clean install of Windows, go into your BIOS settings and ensure you have turned off the onboard graphics capability otherwise Windows will try and install drivers for it.

A good way to check things is by using a benchmark utility that will then compare your results to similar systems. Also they will typically provide "plain English" system snapshot screens where you can confirm your RAM is not only registered as the correct amount but at what timing etc it is set at....same with your CPU, storage drives, graphics card etc.

I have always looked at building PC's as a fairly intensive process and one that I not only enjoy but one I try to do as well as I can. There is no way to build a PC well unless you spend the time to understand first, the Basic Input Output System (BIOS) and how everything, and I mean everything on a PC is dependant on that BIOS being configured not only correctly but optimally.

Once you have a handle on the BIOS (if nothing else, the BIOS specific to the PC you have) you can then move on to how the O/S you install can now completely muck things up and how to optimally configure it for your use.

I was helping my brother once a while back and after a short time he said "this is too complicated, I just want to push a button and have it work".....well, that is fine but also, he probably shouldn't be trying to build his own PC.

What drivers are you installing? The current one from Nvidia which claims WHQL certification for Windows 10 is 361.91

http://www.nvidia.com/download/driverResults.aspx/98555/en-us

Have you tried this version?

RE: BIOS flashing....post what mobo you have.

eh, I am addicted to milk. I get three 1/2 gallon glass bottles of whole milk and three pint glass bottles of half and half (for coffee) delivered by the milkman (yup, still a thing) every Monday. It's typically no more than 24 hours for the milk to go from the cow to my fridge.

but yeah, it probably is gross and I wouldn't fault anyone for thinking so.....I live off the stuff tho.

You can be damn sure they know the price of a game they actually paid for.

When you say your computer wouldn't power on at all, can you clarify exactly what occurred? Did the power supply itself at least work? (check the fan on the PSU, it should be on). If the power supply is turning on I would expect some sort of POST (Power On Self Test) code to be generated. Codes vary by manufacturer but a typical post would be three short beeps to indicate no video detected (check your mobo manual or online). In a normal scenario you only ever hear the one POST code which everyone knows, a single beep to indicate successful POST.

The first thing I would have done when the PC didn't POST at all after putting in a new card (I am assuming there was no POST generated, correct me if I am wrong) would have been to remove the new card and either tried powering up with no graphics card at all which should generate the no video post or, you could pop the old card back in and see if it powers back up. If neither of those two allow the PC to generate a POST, something else happened, you connected something wrong or had some sort of ESD discharge which damaged a component.

Also, if the power supply itself is not even turning on and you disconnected all the wires that connect your cases switches to your mobo, very good chance the power switch (on the case) is not connected to the right terminals on the mobo.

A lot depends on just what exactly is occurring when you hit the power button on your case though so any further details would be helpful.

The last movie I watched was actually "The Dead Pool", a Clint Eastwood/Dirty Harry flick from '88. Forgettable movie with one absolutely unforgettable moment. You can find the clip on youtube easily but first, a little context.

First, this was a "Dirty Harry" movie and unlike some other movies of that genre, "Dirty" Harry Callahan did not deal in humor. More akin to Charles Bronson in the "Death Wish" series to say, Bruce Willis in the "Die Hard" series. I suppose one could argue that pointing a gun at someone and then querying of them, "do you feel lucky punk, well, do you?" indicates a sense of humor but I think it just indicates balls of steel.

Second, this was 1988 and Jim Carrey virtually unknown, Ace Ventura did not exist, nor did "In Living Color".

So, if you can, transport yourself back to 1988 and your favorite movie theater. Remember, you have never heard of Jim Carrey nor seen his comedic "stylings". You are watching an action movie that, so far, has delivered on it's promise of action annnnnddddd scene......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43EJTd6cSZ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43EJTd6cSZ8