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    The PC (Personal Computer) is a highly configurable and upgradable gaming platform that, among home systems, sports the widest variety of control methods, largest library of games, and cutting edge graphics and sound capabilities.

    Problem with first build, please help

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    alistercat

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    #1  Edited By alistercat

    So my friend wanted a gaming PC and I thought I might as well give it a go building him one since I've always wanted to do it. I'm so disappointed in myself, after the thought I put in to it I didn't think it'd be too hard but I've fucked up somewhere. Basically, here's my problem. 
     

    Parts:

    Case - Antec 900
    CPU - i5 760
    RAM - 4GB DDR3
    GPU - GTX460 1GB
    PSU - 650w Modular (I can't remember the exact one) 
    Motherboard -  ASUS P7P55 LX Socket 1156
      
    Updated: Thank you everyone for the help so far. The initial problems have been resolved. Now I have an issue of the computer not booting properly. It gets to the bios screen and says "press delete to enter setup" and then powers off after about 3 seconds and starts itself back up.

     
    I feel like I've let him down, and I'm so annoyed at myself. I wanted it to go smoother than this. I would really appreciate the communities help.
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    HitmanAgent47

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    #2  Edited By HitmanAgent47

    I'm not sure exactly what your saying, however do you have a manual for the mobo? If you have a manual for the case and also the mobo, it should tell you where to put all the wires and where to put the wires. Or you can youtube the mobo and see how other ppl puts it together because you could of made a mistake.  
        
    Do you even have a bios screen? I know it's not much help for now, however can you at least tell me what is the mobo?

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    alistercat

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    #3  Edited By alistercat
    @HitmanAgent47:  I probbably made several mistakes. Sorry, the motherboard is ASUS P7P55 LX Socket 1156. I have looked at both manuals for quite a while and while they helped me set up audio, USB etc I think I am stumbling on power... which those manuals are not help and there was no manual for the PSU.
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    alistercat

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    #4  Edited By alistercat
    @HitmanAgent47:  and no, I dont see anything. No bios screen.
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    s7evn

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    #5  Edited By s7evn
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    Amtiskaw

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    #6  Edited By Amtiskaw
    @AlisterCat said:
    " So my friend wanted a gaming PC and I thought I might as well give it a go building him one since I've always wanted to do it. I'm so disappointed in myself, after the thought I put in to it I didn't think it'd be too hard but I've fucked up somewhere. Basically, here's my problem. 
     

    Parts:

    Case - Antec 900
    CPU - i5 760
    RAM - 4GB DDR3
    GPU - GTX460 1GB
    PSU - 650w Modular (I can't remember the exact one, he
     
    1. Turning it on I can see the LED on the motherboard to indicate that it's receiving power. The CPU cooler starts up just fine. Nothing going to the monitor at all. I don't have any idea what is and isn't working because it doesn't boot at all or indicate that the motherboard is working despite it looking like it's on. The hard drive is completely empty so I need to install the OS.
    2. The PSU is modular, and I attached the main 24 pin connector to the motherboard and there is a second 8pin one built on but I can't find anywhere on the motherboard to put it. Do I even need to use it?
    3. I don't know how I should be supplying power to each component (e.g. which cables to use). I've got 2 6 pin on the GTX460 going to 8pins in to the PSU and I have absolutely no idea if that's right. Maybe you can't even tell me, but I need help for where to look.
    4. I don't know how to supply power to the fans. The connectors are standard not special fan ones for the motherboard, and I don't know what type of connection it is.
     I feel like I've let him down, and I'm so annoyed at myself. I wanted it to go smoother than this. I would really appreciate the communities help. "
    2. The 8 pin cable is to supply power to the CPU, the connector is probably close to it.    
     
    4. They're probably male molex connectors, the PSU should have at least 1 cable with 3 or 4  female connectors.
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    HitmanAgent47

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    #7  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @AlisterCat: well I have two major power connectors, one is a 8 pin for power to the mobo and a 24pin connector for power. That's where the 8 pin connector should be connected to anyways to the psu.  
     
    For hardrives they are connected through a bunch of hardrive style power cables that are on your psu and fans are connected to all those small 3 pin things on your mobo. Also double check if all the power, led lights for the case and those smaller cables are connected properly. That's the power side of things. 
     
    edit: looking at the picture of the mobo, it's strange how there is a 4 pin connector where the 8 pin should be. The 8 pin should be able to divide into two 4 pin connectors and that's how you connect that.
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    Ham08

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    #8  Edited By Ham08

    Make sure the power supply supports modern video cards.

    Modern Video cards need direct power from the power supply not just from the PCI-Express slot on the motherboard.  It should be a six pin connector and will plug in to the video card on the end inside the case.  Sometimes they have a six pin and a two pin stuck together, because some devices require eight.  In that case, two of those pins should slip off and away from the other six if that is all you need for your video card.  Examine the connector from the power supply carefully, it should be easily recognizable that two pins can be separated from the other six.

    There's a four pin connector to power the CPU, 24 PIN to power the motherboard.  You may have only supplied power to the CPU fan and not the CPU itself.

    On the motherboard/case, match up all the pin numbers (ie., pin 1 case wires matches pin 1 on motherboard, ground to ground etc., for the correct device  such  as power on/off, USB, Fans, etc.).

    This should all be in your motherboard, case, power supply, video card, etc manuals.

    It wouldn't hurt you to find a recent guide for building your PC and read the whole thing carefully, then start from scratch.

    New builders can take 10 hours or more before they get it right, so don't be discouraged, but you will have to read, study, and ask questions to learn the ropes.  Experienced builders can usually have it up and running ready for an OS install / stress test in less than an hour.


    P.S. Never skimp on a power supply.  A 650 Watt continuous is preferred over modular. More than one rail was preferred in the past, but not so any longer.  A single rail continuous with high efficiency is an overall better power supply.  BTW, what brand name is your power supply?  What efficiency rating?  How many rails? You may be better off sending it in for a quality brand replacement.

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    SeriouslyNow

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    #9  Edited By SeriouslyNow
    @AlisterCat: 
     

     The PSU is modular, and I attached the main 24 pin connector to the motherboard and there is a second 8pin one built on but I can't find anywhere on the motherboard to put it. Do I even need to use it?  

    That's your problem.  There will be a power connector near the CPU socket which you haven't connected.  In your case, it's a 4pin blue plug.
     

     
    Note the 4 Pin blue connector, in the top right section, just up and to the right of the CPU socket.
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    PDC_Emulator

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    #10  Edited By PDC_Emulator

    Most of the time when I am working in my pc and I bump the video card (GTX 280) power connector, the video card will emit a continuous beep upon boot. A GTX 460 may exhibit similar behavior. 
     
    Speaking of beeps, is the onboard speaker plugged in? If so, are you hearing any beep codes upon boot? The PC will emit a solid beep if all is well, and a beep sequence if it encounters problems. If there are no beeps at all, you may just have a dead mobo/CPU.
     
    Edit: Have you tried doing some simple stuff to troubleshoot this (reseating CPU, all expansion cards, cables etc..)?

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    alistercat

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    #11  Edited By alistercat
    Thanks for all the help guys.
     
    @SeriouslyNow:  Yeah, I saw that but it's not even close to the connector on the PSU. Does that mean the PSU isn't compatible? 
     
    @Amtiskaw:  It came with one but that's not going to be enough. I'll have to go buy some. Where would I plug them in to on the PSU though? It has 2x 6 pin PCI slots, 2x 8pin PCI-E slots, 2x SATA Slots, one for floppy drives :s, and one for 'accessories'. I'm guessing if anything would be accessories.
     
    @Ham08: OK yeah, I only set up the CPU fan and according to SeriouslyNow I probbably haven't powered the CPU. It doesn't look like I have the right cables for that. The GPU power was confusing me. The PSU has 2x 6pin PCI slots and 2x 8pin PCI slots (as well as 2x 6pin SATA). The graphics card has 2 6pin slots on the top and I only got 2x 6pin to 8pin cables so I put both 6pin ends in the gpu and put both 8pin ends in the PCI-e express slots. The GPU only came with 1x 6pin connecter that splits in to 2 male molex connectors and I couldn't figure out what I was supposed to do with that or whether I needed to fill both of the power connectors on the GPU so I ended up not using that. 
     
    @HitmanAgent47: It doesn't look like I can divide the 8pin in to a 4pin but I don't have it here at my house so I'll have to check when I go back over there.

    @PDC_Emulator: No sound from the motherboard, so I'm guessing not. Reading the manual I saw that I needed to connect one of 2 audio cables from the case and I think I connected HD audio right but that probbably has to do with the sound ports on the front of the case and not the beep from the motherboard, right?
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    Bollard

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    #12  Edited By Bollard
    @AlisterCat: Maybe you could post some pics of your current state of affairs, with the current connections on the mobo and cables from the PSU, so we could see what is/isn't connected and might be wrong? 
     
    I too went through my first build recently, and it took about 5 and a half hours over 3 days (I was busy most of the time.) It was taxing but it was definitely worthwhile, and I learnt a lot. Certainly won't be buying a prebuilt computer again, building myself all the way! 
     
    Also, just curious, were you grounded during the build? Worst case you could have fried the GPU or something else with static, but probably not.
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    PDC_Emulator

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    #13  Edited By PDC_Emulator
    @AlisterCat said:

    @PDC_Emulator: No sound from the motherboard, so I'm guessing not. Reading the manual I saw that I needed to connect one of 2 audio cables from the case and I think I connected HD audio right but that probbably has to do with the sound ports on the front of the case and not the beep from the motherboard, right? "
    The onboard speaker should come with the motherboard, and connect directly to a header on the board (typically near where the power, reset, and front LED cables go).
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    alistercat

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    #14  Edited By alistercat
    @PDC_Emulator:  I didn't see anything but I'll have another look in the manual again.
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    SeriouslyNow

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    #15  Edited By SeriouslyNow
    @AlisterCat:   It's unlikely that your PSU isn't compatible with the motherboard.  That four pin power connector has been standard on Intel machines sine the latter days of the Pentrium 4.  What is more likely is that you aren't routing your cables correctly (in BTX style cases like the Antec 900, the PSU is at the bottom and you need to route cables up through the back of the motherboard tray).  It's also possible that you've confused yourself on which cable is which and which end is which because your modular PSU may have the same kind of 8 / 4 pin connector cables and you've literally plugged them in the wrong way around - from what you describe you're using one of the 6/8 Pin VGA Rail power cables instead of the correct 4/8 Pin CPU Rail cable.  Either is possible and one is definitely happening.  That CPU 4 Pin Rail connector must be powered for the system to be bootable.
     
    Do yourself a favour and ignore all other suggestions here in this thread until you get your power cabling sorted.  While they may be of some assistance, they do not really relate to your non booting issue at hand and may only confuse you further.
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    alistercat

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    #16  Edited By alistercat
    @SeriouslyNow:  I'm not at his, where he has his parts so I can't be sure but I think this is the one:
     http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/PowerCool-650W-PC-650AUBA-Dual-12v-V2.2-80+-Effici_6491.html
     The cable I'm talking about is the one wired in to the CPU and is non modular, right next to the main 24 pin connector. It's 8 pin I think. For the trouble I'm having with my graphics card they are labelled as PCI express etc but thats a separate issue as those are separate and not wired in.
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    SeriouslyNow

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    #17  Edited By SeriouslyNow
    @AlisterCat:  In that page look at the 4Pin p4 12V connector.  That's the one.
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    alistercat

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    #18  Edited By alistercat
    @SeriouslyNow: I didn't see a single cable that looked like that anywhere, but I will check again. If I do find it, or if I buy one, where would I put it in the PSU? On that PSU there are only 8 slots and each one is labelled for it's use (PCI, ATA etc). Also, does that mean I should just leave that 8pin one loose?
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    SeriouslyNow

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    #19  Edited By SeriouslyNow
    @AlisterCat:  Well that 8 pin cable may be the right cable too, some motherboard use 2 x 4 pin connectors in series for a combined 24V CPU rail (useful when overclocking for stability).  Try connecting that cable up with the PSU out of the case, at least to power the system on successfully.  You can purchase cable extenders on ebay and such if it doesn't reach.
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    Gilsham

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    #20  Edited By Gilsham

    1. your atx 12v 4pin seams to be unplugged for your posts, looking at the case there seams to be hole to put the 4pin connector near the psu but I can't see if it comes out at the top if you can't find out how to do it that way there are extenders for it  
    2. the 8 pin is for certain video cards, looking a a few gtx460 they use dual 6pins 
    3. things that need to be plugged into the psu are video card and hdds, there are 2 types of hdd connections the fat 4pin are molex and are used with the wide ribbon cable, the other are for sata (they probably have a name but I've never herd it =P)
    4. sounds like your fans are using a jumper style plug which are on your mobo the manual has the location of these seams to be page 1-7 figure 1.5.3 there is one for the cpu fan and 1beside for a power fan (can be used for case fans) and one in the centre of board for case fans they are all labelled like the figure 
     
    also seeing it is an asus board it probably has a white connector block for all the power buttons leds etc which should be quite easy to use (I love these =D)

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    HitmanAgent47

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    #21  Edited By HitmanAgent47

    Are you sure you can't snap the 8 pin in 4? Take a picture of your mobo with your current connectors and take a picture of this 8 pin connector cable. I myself use an antec 900 myself so I have the manual and the case, so i'm familiar with it if I remember where I plugged everything.

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    HitmanAgent47

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    #22  Edited By HitmanAgent47

    Also I couldn't edit this in for my last post, can you figure out what psu are you using? Is it a cosair modular psu? Maybe I can see the actual connectors and stuff because the 8 pin should be able to use a 4 pin. Maybe you have to snap it in two and you didn't realise you could.

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    alistercat

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    #23  Edited By alistercat
    @HitmanAgent47:  I posted it earlier, I think that's the one anyway. It didn't look like it could snap in 2 like the PCI-e connectors can but I don't have the stuff with me so I'll have to go and take another look then report back.
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    HitmanAgent47

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    #24  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @AlisterCat: I went to the newegg page and I saw a description for a 4/8 pin cable for specifications. I hope you connected something in that 4 pin slot, or the mobo isn't going to work. Did you? 
     
    I'll look more into it however there is definetly a page that has a 4/8 pin connector under specifications on multiply sites. I'll look into it later because i'm looking at the cosair TX650 modular psu.
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    alistercat

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    #25  Edited By alistercat
    @gilsham:  Thanks for all that help.
     
    @SeriouslyNow:@HitmanAgent47:
    Well I went over to his house briefly today and I could infact split the 8 pin in to two 4 pins although it was kind of weird. Anyway, I plugged it in and it booted to a blue Asus screen but then it powered down after a couple of seconds and rebooted, infinitely. I plugged in a mouse to the USB port and it powered up but I tried plugging in keyboards to both USB and purple keyboard slots on the back and it wouldn't power up for me to press delete to enter the bios setup. Any explination for what is going on here?
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    Gilsham

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    #26  Edited By Gilsham
    @AlisterCat: that kinda sounds like it is overheating >.> is the cpu fan working? I can't think of anything else that would restart the pc constantly like that maybe if the reset button was shorting =/, if it was the gfx there would most likely be deafening screech(always plug your gfx cards power in =P), it doesn't seam to have splash top (I small os that boots before the bios good for unfuxing shit)
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    alistercat

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    #27  Edited By alistercat
    @gilsham:  what is overheating?
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    Gilsham

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    #28  Edited By Gilsham
    @AlisterCat said:
    " @gilsham:  what is overheating? "
    if it is just starting up and not even getting to post I'd say the cpu hence why I asked if its fan is going
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    alistercat

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    #29  Edited By alistercat
    @gilsham:  the fan is definitely going. I could try reseating it but it seems like it's set up perfectly fine. If no OS is installed, which is the current situation, what should it be doing?
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    essi2

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    #30  Edited By essi2

    @AlisterCat 
    It should start up and then tell you that there is no bootable device (or something to that effect). This does sound like a CPU thing, you should check if the heatsink and fan is properly secured and that there's a good layer of moist thermal paste on the heatsink pad.

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    alistercat

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    #31  Edited By alistercat
    @essi2:  I will remove the CPU and the cooler, then reseat them both and report back. I was under the impression that if using stock retail Intel CPUs the heatsink on the cooler doesn't need thermal paste, as demonstrated by one William Smithington in his How To Build a PC video. Thanks for the help.
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    HitmanAgent47

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    #32  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @AlisterCat: there should be a thermal strip of paste on it by default. It's never, no thermal paste on it or it will fry the cpu dispite what you think you saw in that video. Also if you reseat it, I hope you have enough thermal paste on it or it's just metal to metal and that isn't going to transfer heat well.  
     
    I was thinking, are you sure there isn't anything wrong with your mobo? Sometimes they come dead on arrival. However I can't comment on that because I never head a dead mobo before. If you can't make it work, your going to have to isolate and maybe RMA something. I hope you have a waranty for your components just incase. Or isolate and test every other component too if it's not the cpu. I mean you should at the very least get a bios screen, even for a second to tell you to connect the cpu fan before powering down, yet you don't even get anything.
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    alistercat

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    #33  Edited By alistercat
    @HitmanAgent47:  Well it's an Asus board, I don't know their procedure but it shouldn't be too hard to find out. I will contact the retailer first, if it comes to that. The motherboard is booting up though, it isn't dead. The motherboard screen with the product code comes up and says "press tab... press delete to enter bios setup" etc, and then it goes blank and restarts. So I doubt it's dead although it could be damaged I guess but not my fault certainly. I was extremely cautious.
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    HitmanAgent47

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    #34  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @AlisterCat: so you can see the bios? Then that rules out the mobo, you don't have to rma it. Once that happened to me and I had a blue screen and infinite loop. Memtest 86+ showed everything was perfect with the ram. I formatted the hardrive and reinstalled the operating system and it was working. 
     
    Can you at least get into the bios screen? If you can, you can at least set some of the settings like boot priority and stuff. I'm not sure if it's the same hardrive problem as me, however I tested my ssd drive on my other pc and it also went though the infinite loop thing. I thought I mention that here. If you can format your hardrive with a different pc if you can. That's one of the many things I might suggest. Then again SSD drives if you change the hardrive setting from AHCI to IDE, might put you through an infinite loop. That's not relevent info to your problem, however it's something that's common with SSD drives.
     
    Did you set bios at all? Like boot priortiy, which hardrives to read in what order and all that stuff? Just keep pressing delete or something until you can get into the bios and see if that might help. If anything hopefully if you set the priorities right, you can hopefully get the windows 7 disc to at least read and maybe format the hardrive. At least you divided your 4 pin adapter so your mobo works. Also try to reseat your cpu heatsink of course to rule that out. Isolate the problem as I always say.
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    alistercat

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    #35  Edited By alistercat
    @HitmanAgent47:  I can't get to the bios screen, that's why I made such little progress after sorting out power for the CPU. Thing is, that screen is timed but the keyboard (whether it's USB or PS2) doesn't get power until just before it turns itself off. Which is weird cos the USB mouse gets power just fine. So I can't press the key to enter the bios at all.
     
    By the way, I'm getting an SSD for christmas for my current system (these problems are with a build I'm doing for a friend so not connected), what should I do in the bios, and how would I enable TRIM?
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    HitmanAgent47

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    #36  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @AlisterCat: are you sure you want a SSD? there is really like no capacity for games. I have three hardrives, the first is an SSD, second is a WD black sata 3 6gig per second (as falsely advertised) and third storage drive is a samsung spinpoint drive. A SSD drive isn't enough if you aren't going to use a second drive. I have native TRIM support for my SSD drive, I didn't  have to download any new drives for it. So I can't speak from experience how other drives works. However you must enable AHCI mode, not IDE. I suppose other ppl can download drives beforehand when installing the operating system, however I didn't have to because I have no firmware for my kingston SSD drive.
     
    I mean can't you hold onto delete the whole time it's booting up? You sure a tradition non usb hardrive doesn't work? I can understand the usb drive being slow, however the other traditional keyboard might work if you hold onto a button or keep pressing it.  
     
    Look deal with the heatsink first, hope you don't mess up the thermal paste. Then try these other suggestions, like formatting the drive with another pc.  

    Look if you put a windows 7 dvd in there, I am asking, will it read it at all? If you can get dvd working, at least you can format your drive with windows 7.
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    dbz1995

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    #37  Edited By dbz1995

    While we're on the subject, I need some help too. My computer works fine, but my 5750 does not seem to. I've put it on, and there are two 4-pin power cables. What do I do with them? Nothing is connected to the 5750 at the moment-the only thing I've done is put it in the PCI Express.

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    HitmanAgent47

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    #38  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @dbz1995: you don't use the 4 pin in the videocard unless you want to fry it. I doubt it even fits in the slot because it's keyed. You use one six pin adapter into the hd 5750. The 4 pin or 8 pin is only for the mobo. Unless you are talking about 4 pin molex adapters, that's different and it's for fans and stuff like that. 
      
    this goes into the videocard.
       
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    #39  Edited By alistercat
    @HitmanAgent47:  The SSD will just be for the operating system and my main programs. It's 120GB so enough for that. I have a 500GB drive and a 1TB drive for storage as well that I'm already using. My current OS drive will just go towards storage.
     
    No keyboard I have used has worked on it, seemingly because it isn't getting power (the lights don't come on until just before it powers down). Holding down delete does nothing, it doesn't power up. I know it isn't the USB port because I put a mouse in there and it worked fine so I don't know. I will try and see if there's anything I can do for the CPU.
     
    Putting the DVD in the drive won't do anyt good, I don't think. I haven't tried, but it just suddenly cuts power and then starts up again right after the initial bios screen.
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    #40  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @AlisterCat: I use a 64 gig ssd and it's enough for programs, 32 gigs isn't enough for programs at all because windows update is like 30 gigs already, lol. Luckily programs doesn't take alot of gigs, only games do.
     
    I also remembered one last thing, I pressed another keyboard switch which let me select which drive I wanted to boot from. Check your instructions if there is such a key you can press because I am also running an asus mobo, an intel mobo. I then booted from the dvd drive I think after I selected it. Do you have a button for that too? I know you can't use the keyboard, however I think that's how I did it if I remember it correctly. Well update the thread when you tried some of the suggestions. My only suggestion is to try to reseat the cpu heatsink then maybe format the hardrive on another pc. There doesn't seem to be much else you can do for now if you can't get to the bios or run the dvd drive. I don't have any futher advice until you try these suggestions out. Honestly most ppl doesn't run into this many problems building a pc, you are unlucky.
     
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    #41  Edited By TheKeyboardDemon
    @AlisterCat:  Did you manage to get a keyboard working/connected to the PC you're building? I thought that you said you couldn't manage this so far. Is it a wired or wireless keyboard? If it's wireless try a wired 1, it might just be that the keyboard hasn't managed to get synced with the reciever. 
     
    @HitmanAgent47 said:

    " I have three hardrives, the first is an SSD, second is a WD black sata 3 6gig per second (as falsely advertised)
    "

    I always thought that the 6gb/s was talking about the speed of the interface and not the speed of the drive, the way I learnt about drives is that you have the physical drive itself which is a series of platters on a spindle with a series of heads that can read from or write to the surface of the platters, then a bridge on which the interface circuits connect the drive to the computer via a suitable connector. Most hdd companies talk about the speed of the connectors and not the speed at which data can be taken off the actual drive as this tends to be much lower than the connector speed. The speeds that matter most are the burst and sustained data rate speeds, as these will show the fastest rate at which data can be taken off the drive and the speed at which a constant flow of data would leave the drive, IIRC. I Looked on the WD site for the data on this and I couldn't find it. I think your WD drive should be able to cope with around 95MB/s average and a burst speed of about 140MB/s and you should be getting seek times of around 4.6ms based on my slower Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 drives which should be able to manage 85MB/s and 125MB/s normally and these are producing 98MB/s or 180MB/s in a raid set up. So it's not really false advertising, just misleading.


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    #42  Edited By HitmanAgent47
    @TheKeyboardDemon: I benchmarked the drive, it runs 125mb per second read and write. However my SSD drive is much faster than that. If anything, it gives me twice the speed of my third samsung spinpoint drive which benches as 60mb read. My mobo has this newer sata 3 interface and stuff, so I thought I make the most out of it. That's what they advertise on the drive and you can read the description here. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533&cm_re=western_digital_caviar_black-_-22-136-533-_-Product 
      
    the program is called atto disk benchmark, another program you can mess around with if you want to benchmark your own drives.

    samsung spinpoint
    samsung spinpoint


    western digital drive sata 3
    western digital drive sata 3

    ssd drive, not the fastest SSD drive, yet it's cheap
    ssd drive, not the fastest SSD drive, yet it's cheap
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    #43  Edited By alistercat
    @TheKeyboardDemon said:
    " @AlisterCat:  Did you manage to get a keyboard working/connected to the PC you're building? I thought that you said you couldn't manage this so far. Is it a wired or wireless keyboard? If it's wireless try a wired 1, it might just be that the keyboard hasn't managed to get synced with the reciever."
    I used both a wired PS2 and USB keyboard as well as a brand new wireless one (and the USB one was the one I brought from home that I'm using right now). None of them would work or power on in time. I figured the wireless one wouldn't work because it would need drivers, and without as OS to install them to it wouldn't work, but whateer the case none of them worked anyway even though I can guarantee both wired ones work.
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    #44  Edited By TheKeyboardDemon

     @AlisterCat:  That seems to suggest that the USB Ports are not working or they are incorrectly configured, I'm assuming that you are connecting the keyboard to the backplate of the mobo and not using the ports at the front of the case, if so unplug the case's USB connectors from the mobo just in case they are causing interference.

    I've had a look at the manual, this mobo uses jumpers to configure wake up on USB the default setting is to have pins 2 and 3 connected, try moving the jumper to connect pins 1 and 2 for ports 1-8 which should give you +5v to the back panel USB Ports.

    As you have had some messages come up on the screen I think it is safe to assume that your RAM is ok, though just in case remove all but 1 stick and ensure that the stick you leave is in slot 1. Disconnect the power connectors to all of your hard drives and optical drives until you can get it to post and get into the BIOS settings.
     
    @HitmanAgent47: I'll give that a go and PM you my results, so as not to derail this thread (I somehow end up doing that! Sorry).

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    #45  Edited By alistercat
    @TheKeyboardDemon:  Well the USB ports seem fine. I have plugged other devices including a mouse in to them and they power up. The mouse powers up fine every time. It just seems to have a problem with the keyboard. I will try what you said anyway.
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    #46  Edited By TheKeyboardDemon

    It was the only thing I could think of, looking through the manual, clearly you will not be able to move forward without resolving the keyboard issue. Hopefully someone else with have an answer, there's nothing on it on the ASUS forums. Maybe you should try contacting the guys that sold the mobo and see if they can offer any technical assistance.

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    #47  Edited By alistercat

    I have updated the first post since you guys were so great and helped me with that. It would be so much easier if I had it here because then I could at least try stuff. Oh well. Still need thoughts on whether it is over heating, and why it might be overheating etc.

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    #48  Edited By BigLemon

    Your motherboard may have some misplaced solder somewhere on the traces. Have you given it a good once over to see if anything is there that could be causing it to short/overheat?

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    #49  Edited By alistercat
    @BigLemon:  I wouldn't know what to look for even if it was. What should I be looking at?
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    #50  Edited By alistercat

    I've been speaking to a friend and he said it might be a RAM issue. Gah... so many things that could of gone wrong.

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