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Kazona

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Getting That Near Perfect Shave

Note: This is a long read. I've tried to make it easy to skim through, but even so, you have been warned.
 

Introduction

This may come as a surprise to some, while others have known it for the longest time: I am a vain person. Sometimes I wish I had a fancy job just for the sake of being able to wear nice, tailor-made, clothes. With my current job, however, wearing a suit would not only look weird, but I'd also risk having to throw it away after about a week or two.  
 
So I am left with my hair and face, both of which I am very particular about. I hate it when the wind blows my hair out of style, and I can easily spend 30 minutes in front of a mirror just to get it the way I want. (And if it weren't for the awkward looks I'd get, I'd frequently check and restyle my hair at work as well).
 
However, as vain as I am, the one thing that I have always hated doing the most during my morning routine, was shaving. Over the years I have tried all kinds of stuff to prevent irritation, stubble, redness, but nothing worked. And for the longest time I simply accepted that I would never get satisfactory results. There were times that I simply decided not to shave at all because looking scruffy was a better alternative than my skin feeling like it had been dragged along pavement. 
 
But over the last couple of months, I have been doing research on how to get that smooth shave, without having any of the irritated skin afterwards. And yes, I do mean research. I have read countless of articles on the web, and experimented with numerous different methods of shaving. And very recently, I finally found the method that gives me the results that I want.  
 
Of course everyone has different skin, so what works for me, might not work for someone else. But even so, I'm so satisfied that I decided to share some tips with you all.
 

General Advice

 

Get A Good Razor

One of the biggest factors in getting a good shave, is having a good razor. If you are using a cheap, disposable, razor because you don't feel like shelling out for a better one, then you deserve whatever problems that may come from it. So do yourself a favor, and get a good razor. Personally I used the Gillette Fusion Power. The neat thing is that it vibrates, which makes shaving that much easier. And on average, I need to swap blades every 3 or 4 weeks, which is a pretty long time to shave with the same blades. 
 

Take Your Time

If you don't want to spend more than 5-10 minutes on shaving, then you might as well stop reading now. Getting a really good shave takes time. Although I do have to say that a "good shave" is a very subjective matter. For me, a good shave means no stubble, and no irritation of any kind. And unless you got perfect skin, that's something that takes time. So my advice is to plan in about 30 minutes for shaving. If you get the hang of it quickly, you might need less than that, but 30 minutes should be more than sufficient. 
 

Getting Down to Bussiness

Ok, time to get to shaving! I'm going to divide this thing up in steps, and make it as easy as possible to follow. I should preface that I do my shaving in the shower, but you can also do it before or after if you so choose. 
 
  1. Wash your face with a hot wash cloth

    By doing this, you open up the pores in your skin, and soften the hairs. Normally the hairs on your face are even tougher than the blades on your razor, even when you have a fancy, expensive one. So to soften up the hairs, and get your skin ready for shaving, you should, thoroughly, wash it with a hot wash cloth. It should be as hot as you can handle, but not so much that you burn your skin. So experiment with this a little.

    Note: By thoroughly, I mean giving it a good wash without soap. The heat has to 'sink' into your skin sorta speak, so just dabbing, or splashing, on some hot water isn't going to cut it. If you want to go real fancy-like, you can always go the hot towel route.

  2. Apply just enough shaving cream or foam

    I've tried shaving gel for the longest time, but in my opinion the foam or cream works better because you know exactly how much you'll be getting when you squirt it on your hand. 

    One of the biggest mistakes people make when shaving, however, is that they use too much. The foam is simply meant to help the razor glide over your skin. If there's too much of it, then the blades will simply be scraping away the foam instead of actually cutting the hairs underneath. Again, it's a matter of experimenting to figure out the right amount, but it's better to use too little the first time, and increase it from there, than to use too much at once.

  3. Rinse razor in cold water

    Even though you can't see it, the blades on a razor aren't perfectly straight. They have microscopic, jagged edges.

    If you rinse the blades under hot water, the metal will expand, making these little notches bigger, which is exactly what you don't want. So rinse it under cold water to make the metal contract, resulting in smaller jags, and providing you with a better, more comfortable shaving experience.

  4. Shave with the grain at first

    Not only will it result in a poorer shave if you go against the grain on your first pass, but skin irritation is also much more likely. So on the first pass, go with the grain, which is to say, go with in the direction that your facial hair grows. To figure out which direction it grows in, simply feel around with your hand. Going with the grain will go smoothly, while going against it, you will feel some resistance from the hair.

  5. Frequently rinse the blades

    Personally I rinse them every 2 or 3 strokes to avoid having too much foam and bits of hair clogging up the razor. After all, if the blades are covered with gunk, they won't do a very good job at cutting. 

    Again, you should rinse the blades under cold water. I can't stress this enough. Always rinse the razor blades under cold water.

  6. A second, optional, pass against the grain

    If you are satisfied with the result by now, then you can skip this (last) step. If you are like me, though, and you want that extra smooth feeling when you touch your face, try giving it a second pass, going against the grain this time.

    Don't wash your face before doing this, though. Some articles will tell you to wash your face, and then reapply foam, but I've found out that this only serves to make things harder on my skin, so I don't do it. Instead I just continue my shave with whatever little bit of foam is still left on my face. If you notice that the blades really don't glide smoothly enough over your skin, then apply the tiniest amount of foam/cream on the spots you're having difficulty with. But preferably, don't add any extra foam to your face since there should still be enough of a film left on your skin.

    I should also note that not everyone's skin can handle shaving against the grain. Plus, there is the slight risk of ingrown hairs, but so far that has never happened to me. 

  7. Wash your face

    Simplest step of all. Just wash the remaining foam off your face with either warm or cold water, whatever you find the most comfortable. 

  8. Apply After Shave (If you want)

    And I am not talking about that crap that contains alcohol, which makes your skin feel like it's on fire. A good After Shave should alleviate any irritation, redness, or dryness that your skin might have after shaving. If your current After Shave doesn't work properly for this, ditch it, and try something else. I, myself, have been using Nivea For Men: After Shave Balm for sensitive skin.

  9. Do the Fonz

    After a good shave, one should always do The Fonz. Failing to do it, could result in your face exploding. You have been warned. Also, if you don't know what The Fonz is, you should smack yourself real hard.
 
And we're done! I hope these tips help at least some of you in achieving that near perfect shave. And I say "near perfect" because there is no such thing as perfect.  
 
Edit:  Vito_Raliffe just pointed out that using a double-edge razor, and a brush made out of badger hair to apply the cream/foam, can result in an even better shave. It's up to you whether you want to try this or not. Just note that using a double-edged razor is different from using your standard cartridge type razor, but if you're careful there shouldn't be any problems.
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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona

Note: This is a long read. I've tried to make it easy to skim through, but even so, you have been warned.
 

Introduction

This may come as a surprise to some, while others have known it for the longest time: I am a vain person. Sometimes I wish I had a fancy job just for the sake of being able to wear nice, tailor-made, clothes. With my current job, however, wearing a suit would not only look weird, but I'd also risk having to throw it away after about a week or two.  
 
So I am left with my hair and face, both of which I am very particular about. I hate it when the wind blows my hair out of style, and I can easily spend 30 minutes in front of a mirror just to get it the way I want. (And if it weren't for the awkward looks I'd get, I'd frequently check and restyle my hair at work as well).
 
However, as vain as I am, the one thing that I have always hated doing the most during my morning routine, was shaving. Over the years I have tried all kinds of stuff to prevent irritation, stubble, redness, but nothing worked. And for the longest time I simply accepted that I would never get satisfactory results. There were times that I simply decided not to shave at all because looking scruffy was a better alternative than my skin feeling like it had been dragged along pavement. 
 
But over the last couple of months, I have been doing research on how to get that smooth shave, without having any of the irritated skin afterwards. And yes, I do mean research. I have read countless of articles on the web, and experimented with numerous different methods of shaving. And very recently, I finally found the method that gives me the results that I want.  
 
Of course everyone has different skin, so what works for me, might not work for someone else. But even so, I'm so satisfied that I decided to share some tips with you all.
 

General Advice

 

Get A Good Razor

One of the biggest factors in getting a good shave, is having a good razor. If you are using a cheap, disposable, razor because you don't feel like shelling out for a better one, then you deserve whatever problems that may come from it. So do yourself a favor, and get a good razor. Personally I used the Gillette Fusion Power. The neat thing is that it vibrates, which makes shaving that much easier. And on average, I need to swap blades every 3 or 4 weeks, which is a pretty long time to shave with the same blades. 
 

Take Your Time

If you don't want to spend more than 5-10 minutes on shaving, then you might as well stop reading now. Getting a really good shave takes time. Although I do have to say that a "good shave" is a very subjective matter. For me, a good shave means no stubble, and no irritation of any kind. And unless you got perfect skin, that's something that takes time. So my advice is to plan in about 30 minutes for shaving. If you get the hang of it quickly, you might need less than that, but 30 minutes should be more than sufficient. 
 

Getting Down to Bussiness

Ok, time to get to shaving! I'm going to divide this thing up in steps, and make it as easy as possible to follow. I should preface that I do my shaving in the shower, but you can also do it before or after if you so choose. 
 
  1. Wash your face with a hot wash cloth

    By doing this, you open up the pores in your skin, and soften the hairs. Normally the hairs on your face are even tougher than the blades on your razor, even when you have a fancy, expensive one. So to soften up the hairs, and get your skin ready for shaving, you should, thoroughly, wash it with a hot wash cloth. It should be as hot as you can handle, but not so much that you burn your skin. So experiment with this a little.

    Note: By thoroughly, I mean giving it a good wash without soap. The heat has to 'sink' into your skin sorta speak, so just dabbing, or splashing, on some hot water isn't going to cut it. If you want to go real fancy-like, you can always go the hot towel route.

  2. Apply just enough shaving cream or foam

    I've tried shaving gel for the longest time, but in my opinion the foam or cream works better because you know exactly how much you'll be getting when you squirt it on your hand. 

    One of the biggest mistakes people make when shaving, however, is that they use too much. The foam is simply meant to help the razor glide over your skin. If there's too much of it, then the blades will simply be scraping away the foam instead of actually cutting the hairs underneath. Again, it's a matter of experimenting to figure out the right amount, but it's better to use too little the first time, and increase it from there, than to use too much at once.

  3. Rinse razor in cold water

    Even though you can't see it, the blades on a razor aren't perfectly straight. They have microscopic, jagged edges.

    If you rinse the blades under hot water, the metal will expand, making these little notches bigger, which is exactly what you don't want. So rinse it under cold water to make the metal contract, resulting in smaller jags, and providing you with a better, more comfortable shaving experience.

  4. Shave with the grain at first

    Not only will it result in a poorer shave if you go against the grain on your first pass, but skin irritation is also much more likely. So on the first pass, go with the grain, which is to say, go with in the direction that your facial hair grows. To figure out which direction it grows in, simply feel around with your hand. Going with the grain will go smoothly, while going against it, you will feel some resistance from the hair.

  5. Frequently rinse the blades

    Personally I rinse them every 2 or 3 strokes to avoid having too much foam and bits of hair clogging up the razor. After all, if the blades are covered with gunk, they won't do a very good job at cutting. 

    Again, you should rinse the blades under cold water. I can't stress this enough. Always rinse the razor blades under cold water.

  6. A second, optional, pass against the grain

    If you are satisfied with the result by now, then you can skip this (last) step. If you are like me, though, and you want that extra smooth feeling when you touch your face, try giving it a second pass, going against the grain this time.

    Don't wash your face before doing this, though. Some articles will tell you to wash your face, and then reapply foam, but I've found out that this only serves to make things harder on my skin, so I don't do it. Instead I just continue my shave with whatever little bit of foam is still left on my face. If you notice that the blades really don't glide smoothly enough over your skin, then apply the tiniest amount of foam/cream on the spots you're having difficulty with. But preferably, don't add any extra foam to your face since there should still be enough of a film left on your skin.

    I should also note that not everyone's skin can handle shaving against the grain. Plus, there is the slight risk of ingrown hairs, but so far that has never happened to me. 

  7. Wash your face

    Simplest step of all. Just wash the remaining foam off your face with either warm or cold water, whatever you find the most comfortable. 

  8. Apply After Shave (If you want)

    And I am not talking about that crap that contains alcohol, which makes your skin feel like it's on fire. A good After Shave should alleviate any irritation, redness, or dryness that your skin might have after shaving. If your current After Shave doesn't work properly for this, ditch it, and try something else. I, myself, have been using Nivea For Men: After Shave Balm for sensitive skin.

  9. Do the Fonz

    After a good shave, one should always do The Fonz. Failing to do it, could result in your face exploding. You have been warned. Also, if you don't know what The Fonz is, you should smack yourself real hard.
 
And we're done! I hope these tips help at least some of you in achieving that near perfect shave. And I say "near perfect" because there is no such thing as perfect.  
 
Edit:  Vito_Raliffe just pointed out that using a double-edge razor, and a brush made out of badger hair to apply the cream/foam, can result in an even better shave. It's up to you whether you want to try this or not. Just note that using a double-edged razor is different from using your standard cartridge type razor, but if you're careful there shouldn't be any problems.
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Ignor

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Edited By Ignor

Thanks, dude :)

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OllyOxenFree

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Edited By OllyOxenFree

Now if only I could grow a beard to make use of this tutorial.
 
DAMMIT!

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CharlesAlanRatliff

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For an even better shave, use a double-edged razor or a straight razor and get a brush made out of badger hair! Not only do you get a way better shave with a double-edged razor, it is way cheaper in the long run. 

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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@Vito_Raliffe: I'm still thinking of buying those things. But currently I am satisfied enough with the results to hold off on it for a while. I'm sure I will buy them eventually, though, because I am a very picky person, so eventually I'll want to get even better results. So yes, this is some good advice as well.  
 
Edit: Added it to the "guide"
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Bogitt

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Edited By Bogitt

oh man when I'm in the shower i just use the razor straight on my skin without foam or anything - that always seems to work fine for me! But hey this is pretty much the definitive guide to shaving so good job dude

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Edited By GunstarRed

I'm pretty certain I use most of these steps  and yet whenever I shave it always feels like i have had a gang of small animals slash me in the face with their claws. 
 
I have just decided it's a lot less hassle if I only shave like twice a month even though I hate having a beard.
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tebbit

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Edited By tebbit

I usually rinse the razor under hot water, though I don't really know why. What you have given me is scientific proof to change my ways! 
 
Also, ALWAYS GO FOR THE SECOND PASS. It'll get rid of junk you didn't even know existed!

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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@Ignor: @Bogitt: Thanks!
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CharlesAlanRatliff

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@Kazona: Yeah, once you do you will never go back, unless you are in a big hurry or something. My skin is very sensitive, so something like a double-edge is best. The downsides are the learning curve and how long it takes each time. Though, with practice, you won't have to worry about it anymore.
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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@marioncobretti: Have you tried using a double-edged razor and/or a different type of shaving cream/foam? It's possible that your skin simply can't handle shaving. My dad has that problem, which is why he has a beard.  
 
@Tebbit: I can do science, me! 
 
@Fragstoff: Eyyy!
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i69edUrGpa

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Edited By i69edUrGpa

Nice lil' guide ya done here

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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@Vito_Raliffe: Any advice on a good, double-edged, razor? If I'm going to buy one, I want it to be as good as possible, without breaking the bank.  
 
@i69edUrGpa: Why, thank you.
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wolf_blitzer85

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Edited By wolf_blitzer85

Haha very informative. Of course when it comes to shaving, I don't. I like my man beard too much to cast it away.

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RE_Player1

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Edited By RE_Player1

Nice tips I'll try it out.  I've been having some difficulty shaving now because I have to do it every day, before it was every 4 days. 

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gla55jAw

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Edited By gla55jAw

The longer you go without shaving the smoother you are post shave. I hate shaving everyday so I usually shave once or twice a week.

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Edited By Gabriel

I might give this a shot, good write up.

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TheMustacheHero

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Edited By TheMustacheHero

Jeff will never be able to use this tutorial.
 
 
 
:P

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Edited By TomWhitbrook

I never shave with the grain. I don't have particularly sensitive skin and hate stubble, so I go against the grain every time. Can't even imagine how going with the grain would work. 
A good tip is to save the shaving until after you shower, to give the heat more time to open your pores properly. Just splashing your face with water isn't going to cut it, so to speak.

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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@wolf_blitzer85: I look like a bum with a beard, unless it's a goatee or soul patch. I wish I could pull of a manly beard :( 
 
@RE_Player92: I know that problem. If I don't shave for more two days, I end up looking like I should live under a bridge.  
 
@gla55jAw: That's weird. I have the exact opposite experience. If I wait too long, I find that it becomes a lot harder to get a good, clean shave. Amazing how much of a difference there can be from one person to the next. 
 
@Gabriel: Thanks. I hope it proves useful. 
 
@TheMustacheHero: Perhaps we should challenge Ryan to use this guide! 
 
@TomWhitbrook: I agree that just splashing your face with water doesn't do anything. Which is why I said that people should use a wash cloth, and thoroughly wash there face. Perhaps I should emphasize it a bit more... 
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raidingkvatch

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Edited By raidingkvatch
@Kazona: Do you work for Gilette (the best a man can get)?
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Edited By TomWhitbrook
@Kazona: It wasn't a criticism of your excellent tutorial! You can of course get the same effect by using a proper facecloth, but I am of the opinion that leaving it till after you shower anyway is the best option.
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Edited By Jeffsekai

whoa

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Edited By MrKlorox

I need a good tri-fold mirror with mounted lights whenever I try to trim my beard (fuck shaving, no offense OP) otherwise I'll end up whittling it down to nothing trying to even it up from one side to the other a thousand times.

GIMME A DOLLAR!
GIMME A DOLLAR!
   
 
I started growing a beard partially because I hated the hassle of shaving, then I fell in love with it. But it came to a point where maintaining the damn thing was more of a hassle than just shaving. I ended up screwing up the trim and had to cut it off and am currently waiting for it to grow back out.
 
Once you get past the bummy stage, you just gotta keep the sides and length even and you start looking like a high fantasy dwarf.
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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@raidingkvatch: Not unless Dutch Cups is a part of Gillette. If it is, I am going to be demanding a pay raise!
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Edited By crusader8463

I just don't shave. Well that's not true. When it starts to get itchy I will shave it or try to rough it out, no pun intended, until it grows past the itchy stage. Sadly it doesn't grow in very well and at a certain point it just makes my face look like a hairy ball sack with a face. That's usually when I shave it.

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sweep

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Edited By sweep  Moderator

I try not to shave. I'm rockin' the rugged look right now. I call it the Dave Snider.

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Edited By gla55jAw
@Kazona said:
" @wolf_blitzer85: I look like a bum with a beard, unless it's a goatee or soul patch. I wish I could pull of a manly beard :( 
 
@RE_Player92: I know that problem. If I don't shave for more two days, I end up looking like I should live under a bridge.  
 
@gla55jAw: That's weird. I have the exact opposite experience. If I wait too long, I find that it becomes a lot harder to get a good, clean shave. Amazing how much of a difference there can be from one person to the next. 
 
@Gabriel: Thanks. I hope it proves useful. 
 
@TheMustacheHero: Perhaps we should challenge Ryan to use this guide! 
 
@TomWhitbrook: I agree that just splashing your face with water doesn't do anything. Which is why I said that people should use a wash cloth, and thoroughly wash there face. Perhaps I should emphasize it a bit more...  "
That is really strange how it's different for each person. I used to have to shave everyday for a job I used to have and I never got a nice clean shave and would get razor burn. That NEVER happens now that I wait it out. I like the scruff look. But even if I shave every 2 or 3 days opposed to everyday, I get a nicer shave.
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TheGreatGuero

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Edited By TheGreatGuero

Who would have thought I could come to Giantbomb today and learn expert tips on how to shave? Awesome.
 
I usually cut myself shaving, though I think I've discovered that I rush too much when I do it. So now I wait until night time to do it, since then I have more time and privacy.
 
But you know what my real problem is? I haven't been doing the Fonz! I'll never shave without doing the Fonz again!

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Edited By FakePlasticTree

Now all we need is a guide to maintaining the perfect beard. Ryan, fuck E3, get on the beard guide.  
 
 
Also, I love my Gillette Fusion Power. I don't use after shave though, since I always shave before I shower. 

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Edited By xMP44x

Bookmarked. Thanks for the tips. :P

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Edited By s10129107

I'm alopeciac so sadly i don't have to worry about combing my hair or shaving.

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Nice post. I have foliculitis (in growns) and it is a bitch. I already use most of the tips you mentioned thought. I might have to get a fusion power though. Also, I do re apply foam to go against the grain. I don't wash my face normally, just add a bit more foam and I get it smooth every time. Unfortunately, I do get in growns. Glad to see I'm not the only one with a problem like this :)

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landon

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Edited By landon

My face would always explode after I shaved, but now I know that, once again, doing The Fonz will help me in my day.

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Spoonybard37

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Edited By Spoonybard37

Man, you've blown my mind.

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raidingkvatch

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Edited By raidingkvatch
@Kazona:  I have no idea what Dutch Cups is but these pink hats make it awesome
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KaosAngel

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Edited By KaosAngel

I got my own lather cause the store bought one sucks, and a single bladed razer.  I advise all other men to do the same.  Don't use store bought stuff.

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Origina1Penguin

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Edited By Origina1Penguin

Against the grain always results in bumps for me.

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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@gla55jAw: I might try shaving every other day instead of on a daily basis, and see how that works out. Hell, the less I have to shave, the less time wasted in my opinion. 
 
@TheGreatGuero: Even though I called it my morning routine, I actually shave at night as well. I'd rather sleep 30 minutes longer instead of getting up earlier to shave because I am lazy like that. Also, Fonzie is god. 
 
@FakePlasticTree: Dude, yes! I want some expert tips from Ryan on how to grow a fucking awesome beard like that.  
 
@xMP44x: I actually got bookmarked? I have reached my life-long goal. I am done now. There is nothing that can surpass being bookmarked! ....Except maybe a Dr. Pepper. 
 
@s10129107: That sucks, dude, sorry to hear that. 
 
@arab_prince: After reading some more about it, I think that's the problem my dad has when it comes to shaving. Except his gets really extreme from what he's told me. 
 
@Landon: The Fonz should be a part of everyone's daily life.  
 
@Spoonybard37: Did I blow your mind, or was it the lack of doing The Fonz that blew it? 
 
@raidingkvatch: Dutch Cups produces, and sells, glasses made of Polycarbonate, which makes them unbreakable, and reusable. And yes, pink hats are fucking awesome. Not as awesome as The Fonz, though. 
 
@KaosAngel: Can I ask what brand lather and razor you use?
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KaosAngel

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Edited By KaosAngel
@Kazona: I just use the Classic Shaving Cream for the lather, and the Feather for the Safety.  Same for the blades.
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ChickenPants

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Edited By ChickenPants

As a man who has to shave pretty much everyday I appreciate your research and will endeavour to put your findings into practice.

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RsistncE

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Edited By RsistncE

I pretty much do nothing you suggest here (in most cases I do the very opposite) yet I never have irritation, stubble etc. I always get a nice smooth shave. I guess I'm just lucky.

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gunslingerNZ

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Edited By gunslingerNZ

Thanks so much for the cold water tip! I'd always used hot water because it felt more comfortable at the time but I always got a bit of razor burn afterward. Just had a shave rinsing the blades in cold water and it feels awesome!

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Meowayne

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Edited By Meowayne

 So my advice is to plan in about 30 minutes for shaving.


 
gtfo.
 
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Kazona

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Edited By Kazona
@RsistncE: Yes, you are lucky. And I hate you for it! 
 
@gunslingerNZ: I had the exact same problem until I started using cold water.  
 
@Meowayne: No U!